36 Hours in Paris

What a wonderful weekend we had in Paris!

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It was the perfect, quick 36-hour trip to the city of lights.

Bo and I decided to use AirBnB for the first time on this quick trip to Paris in hopes of saving a bit of money. As its peak tourist season in Paris many of the hotels in Champs-Elysees, where my aunt and uncle were staying, were over $300 per night. We found a studio apartment located just 10 minutes from their hotel for $150 per night! It had a few quirks, such as the below sparkly toilet lid, but was overall a perfect spot for our quick weekend and far cheaper than area hotels.

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We kicked off our weekend with an hour bike ride followed by champagne and cheese enjoyed waterside in a new to us neighborhood, Canal St Martin.

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The highlights of our trip took place on Saturday, a very full day spent with my aunt and uncle while  enjoying as much of Paris’ food, wine and culture as possible!

The Louvre

Our first stop was the Louvre, as my aunt and uncle hadn’t been to Paris since the famous I.M Pei Louvre pyramid opened in 1988!  

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We discovered two things about the Louvre this time around:

1) You can buy Louvre tickets in advance which will save you valuable time! You can’t pick them up at the Louvre but there are lots of ticket pickup spots around the city or, if you plan far enough in advance, they can mail them to your home or hotel!

2) The medieval Louvre exhibit, underneath the current Louvre, was a part of the Louvre we’d never seen before and really loved! On a crowded, Summer day it can provide welcome relief from the heat and the crowds.

Lunch

After the Louvre we enjoyed lunch, Parisian style, at Le Madeleine 7. I love sitting on the street sipping wine and enjoying a huge salad after a busy morning. Located between the Louvre and the Opera House, a bright red awning and huge salads caught our eye as we walked by the restaurant. It was still packed at 2pm and most people sounded and appeared as if they were locals, always a good sign.

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The Paris Opera House

After three trips to Paris in the past year, we finally checked the Paris Opera House off of our “must see” list! So many people and articles have recommended touring the Paris Opera house that this was the first thing we booked this trip! We bought tickets ahead of time for a self-guided tour and audio guides which allowed us to visit at any time yesterday versus being locked into a particular guided tour slot. The audio guide tour was 45 minutes in length and took us through the entire space including the grand theatre, the halls, and special exhibits!

Bo and I agree that this is one of Paris’ highlights. It  features architecture and design that doesn’t necessarily fit well in any category, but its utter exuberance will make you gasp upon entering at the grandness of the design and decor. Another random fact is that this was being built while the Americans were fighting the Civil War.

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Dinner and Drinks in Saint-Germain-des-Pres

A perfect counterpoint to the right bank of Paris, Saint-Germain-des-Pres reminds me of Gramercy and the West Village in New York City. Narrow, tree-lined streets with cobblestone roads meant more for pedestrians to walk, hand in hand, than for cars. Cafes are plentiful and many fit no more than 50 in their small spaces. The beautiful and perfectly maintained Luxembourg Gardens sit at one end while the Seine, Notre Dame and the Louvre are all within walking distance just north of the area.

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The concierge at my aunt and uncle’s hotel recommended Brasserie Lipp, a Paris restaurant which has been a favorite spot of Hemingway and many others over the years. Last night the restaurant was empty when we arrived at 8pm but packed and bustling by 9:30 when we left. I’d suggest this restaurant for a traditional French bistro dinner but wish our reservations had been for 9 or 10pm in order to get the full restaurant experience. They didn’t like cameras so I don’t have any pictures from dinner itself, but my steak was cooked perfectly rare, just the way I like it, and everyone loved each of their dishes.

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Following dinner Bo and I introduced Rusty and Randy to our favorite neighborhood and park, meandering down the small streets, laughing about our wonderful day and planning our next adventure. We felt so lucky to have this time with them while they were in Europe, blessed that Geneva is located so centrally.

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Later in the evening, after the Luxembourg Garden gates closed, we found ourselves not wanting the night to end. Instead of parting ways, we stumbled upon a wonderful, intimate bar, Le Mont Verdi,  where we enjoyed a few night caps. If you find yourself in the area, please go. The live piano, candlelight, book-lined bar, and perfect pours were the perfect ending to our day together in Paris. (source)

Have you been to Paris? If so, what is your favorite restaurant or spot in Paris?

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A Few Tips for Visiting Versailles

After spending a wonderful day at Versailles with Bo and my in-laws on Friday, I think it deserves a dedicated post. The seat of French power until 1789, it’s gold and over the top splendor continues to attract visitors such as us on a daily basis. It is elaborate and can be a bit overwhelming at first but given the right preparation, it can also be the perfect French day rich in beauty, history and spectacle!

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Many people who are traveling to Paris debate whether to add a day trip to Versailles as it is located outside of the city and can therefore be difficult to fit in short visit.          

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In order to help you plan your visit, here are some things you should know.

How much does it cost? The passport ticket for Versailles is 18 euro ($25) and provides access to ALL sites and areas of Versailles. While you buy a ticket for only the palace, it is 15 euro. Audio guides are included in the price of the ticket and are available in 11 languages.

What is the easiest way to get to Versailles from Paris? The train is the easiest and most inexpensive way to reach Versailles. It took us 40 minutes on the RER C train which is available from many Paris stations and takes you within 5 minutes of Versailles. Exit the train at the Versailles-Rive Gauche station and follow signs to the Chateau Versailles. The roundtrip ticket was 10 Euros ($13.75). The only tip to know is that on your return trip, double check that you are getting on the RER C back to Paris versus an express train. This site was very helpful as well as it provides a pictorial guide for Paris beginners!

What is there to see? There is far more to see than just the palace. When visiting, it is recommended that visitors allow themselves time to explore the palace, gardens, Trianon Palace, and Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet. We ended up having 6 hours and felt that was the perfect amount of time.

Is it crowded? We made the mistake of going to Versailles on one of their high attendance days due to French national holidays. imageThey have a great calendar on their FAQ site which allows you to search the calendar for their low, normal and high attendance days. This way, if you’re in Paris or France for a longer period of time you can schedule your trip on a lower attendance day. Even though it was quite busy, this didn’t affect our visit other than during our time in the Palace, especially the Hall of Mirrors. In hindsight, we should have started in that area as it will only get more crowded later in the day. IMG_5976

Would you recommend a guided tour for Versailles? Yes! We spent the extra 7 Euros ($9.60) for an official Versailles guided tour. There are 3 different tours offered depending on the time of year and we chose the Private Apartments of the Kings which provided us with a great history review as well as a glimpse into the gorgeous and very ornate private apartments and the opera theatre, which only open to public through this tour. If you enjoy history or don’t know much about the era, I highly recommend this option! The guided tour also meant that we were able to avoid waiting in the very long entrance and security line as there is a separate side entrance for visitors taking a guided tour.

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What is the best way to tour the gardens? As you can see from the below pictures, the gardens are enormous! How to tour them is a personal choice as there are golf carts, mini trains, bicycles and your own two legs. Since the weather was beautiful we opted to walk but in hindsight we wish we’d rented bikes. There is so much to do in the gardens whether you choose to rent a row boat, spend the extra money on a golf cart, or just explore. There are handy maps which can help you find hidden fountains and statues. Note that there are certain days when fountain shows take place on site and due to construction, not all the fountains are functioning.IMG_5977IMG_5980Any other tips? We didn’t realize that each attraction at Versailles opens at different times. Therefore, we walked all the way out to Trianon Palace only to find that it didn’t open until noon. Also, the palace is not open on Monday so make sure to schedule your visit another day or you will only be able to see the gardens. Also, while there is food the lines tend to be long so plan ahead and bring snacks or a lunch to enjoy in the garden. You’ll have to check your bag while you tour the castle but can bring it all with you in the gardens.

Here are a few more pictures from our day at Versailles, including the gorgeous gardens and my favorite part, Marie Antoinette’s hamlet!  IMG_5986IMG_6013 IMG_6015IMG_6012 IMG_5991IMG_6018IMG_6076IMG_6044IMG_6048

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Silent Saturday – Paris

The full day of rain in Paris couldn’t keep our spirits down yesterday as we enjoyed warm croissants, strong coffee, long walks, museum visits, umbrella pictures, beautiful gardens, and finally a perfect dinner. 

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