Biking Through Tuscany

Happy Thursday!  I have obviously been less than stellar about posting reviews of some of my recent travels and for that I apologize. I am still trying to find a balance between sharing TOO many travel posts and not enough. As many of you may know, Bo and I celebrated our fifth wedding anniversary with three nights in Florence at the end of November. While the entire trip was amazing – incredible renaissance art, amazing food and wine, and wonderful accommodations – one of the highlights was our bike tour through the Tuscan countryside with I Bike Italy. We booked the “Active Full Day Tuscan Group Bike Tour” and showed up at9am dressed in our bike shorts ready for action. When we arrived, we were greeted by Bill, the owner of the company an American, who has lived in Italy for almost 20 years and is an avid cyclist.

 

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We were expecting a group of people but, since it was off-season, we ended having an incredible private tour. Bill was the perfect tour guide. He began by asking us questions about our cycling experience and ability, in order to make sure he could cater the ride properly. He quickly concluded that we were there to not only take in the beautiful scenery, but also to break a sweat and burn some serious calories. He told us that once we hit the countryside we would just “hammer” for a while and see how far we made  it before lunch.

 

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The ride out of Florence was a little dicey as riding through a busy city often is, but once we hit the outskirts of town, the scenery changed and we immediately knew that this would be a special experience.

 

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We rode through the countryside and up into the hills and, since Bo is a more experienced rider; he rode ahead while Bill gave me a private lesson on how best to tackle hills on a bike. This was so helpful as I’ve never been fully comfortable shifting gears with changing terrain. Bill was a great coach, and I now feel completely comfortable riding aggressively on hills.  We rode almost 40 kilometer (add the mile equivalent)before lunch and, considering the fact that the entire tour is usually only 35 Km, we certainly felt like we earned the pasta that was soon to be on our plate.

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The lunch (included in the price of the tour) was amazing and ranks among the best pasta that either Bo or I have ever eaten. Lunch started with lots of water (the small water bottles that we brought with us didn’t really cut it), a local chianti, bruschetta, and chicken liver pate on toast (a very common Tuscan appetizer). We were ravenous and as we ate, Bill entertained us with some anecdotes about living in Italy – such as the difficulty of passing the driver’s test.  He also told us a few other great stories including how he met his wife.  Just as he was finishing that one, she showed up, and we met her, her mother and his beautiful daughter. This is one of the things that we love so much about Italy. Family and sharing are such an ingrained part of the culture that you can’t help but feel right at home (nothing against the Swiss, but it presents quite a cultural counterpoint).  After two types of pasta – a potato-filled ravioli with a rabbit ragu, and a vegetarian tagliatelle – we were loaded with carbs and ready to continue our journey.

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The afternoon was a bit more relaxing and included a visit to a local chianti producer that also makes its own olive oil, a nice, long downhill ride back into town, and at Bo’s request, a trip to the top of the Piazzale Michelangelo for the most stunning views of Florence.

 

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We ended up doing a total of 36 miles or 57 kilometers, which was most definitely a bicycle PDR for me.

 

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If you are planning a trip to Florence, make sure it includes at least a half day with iBikeItaly. The ride is a great way to learn about the region with a local while also getting exercise!

YOUR TURN – If you could take a bike tour anywhere, what would be your destination of choice?

 

*We were not compensated nor provided a discount in exchange for the review. We just loved iBikeItaly that much!

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Where to Eat in Florence

This afternoon we said goodbye to Florence. Both Bo and I agree that this was exactly the trip that we needed and wanted. It was an incredible 5 year anniversary trip filled with culture, delicious food, new wines, friendly locals, an indulgent hotel, and lots of wonderful memories. We cashed in six years worth of Starwood points in exchange for three nights at the St. Regis Florence, a decision we’d make again in a heartbeat. The service was a level we haven’t experienced since our honeymoon and the king size bed and complimentary upgrade to a river view with soaking tub was bliss, especially as our flat in Geneva only has a simple shower.

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There are so many incredible restaurants in Florence, especially considering its size. There was no way we could try all of the restaurants, even the ones which friends and family recommended. The list of restaurants below are the ones that we’d recommend to our friends, family and you readers. There were other spots that we either tried and didn’t enjoy or paled in comparison to these other spots.

We learned first hand that authentic Italian food is truly delicious not because of it’s complexities but instead its simplicity.

As always, if you have any questions, just drop me a tweet or email! Tomorrow we’ll try to remember what it’s like to eat more green vegetables than pasta. Until then, I’m going to sip a glass of Chianti we brought back from this weekend’s adventure and relax.

IMG_3547Breakfast

Many Italians barely eat breakfast, unless you consider multiple espressos and possibly a cigarette a meal. Most coffee shops offer a few pieces of fruit or an array of pastries, ranging from donuts, sweet brioche to ham and cheese croissants.. They’ll be the first to admit it isn’t their specialty, though and steer you towards a deliciously, strong cup of caffeine. For this reason, none of our breakfasts were especially memorable, except yesterdays at Pugi. Located just a steps away from the Duomo, this is the perfect spot to grab breakfast before starting your day. The bakery often has lines out the door but if you come early you can snag one of their sweet brioche or a slice of one of their fruit breads and cakes, which they insist are just as delicious for breakfast. They were sampling the fig cake which almost made me swap my brioche but in the end the sweet brioche won.  They are also known for their by the slice pizzas and focaccia bread, prepared Florentine style, salt free. Note that they don’t serve coffee but just two doors down there is a small shop which serves up Illy coffee.

IMG_3599Lunch

Three different friends recommended we dine at ‘ino for lunch the day we tour the Uffizi. Located right around the corner from Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery, this small shop is known for their fresh, local ingredients and unique flavor combinations on their extensive sandwich and panini menu. Completely in Italian, the menu includes more than 50 different combinations ranging from meat heavy, truffle inclusive and even vegan. We shared two paninis – prosciutto with truffle tapenade and and the caprese. Served with two glasses of red wine, the total came to 24 euros. Not bad when you consider that these sandwiches are HUGE, freshly prepared, top ingredients and filled with locals.

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Dinner

Over the course of three nights we dined at four different spots. One of them was a total flop which I will not waste energy discussing. Two of them (Trattoria dei 13 Gobbi and Trattoria Gargani) and were memorable dinners which we’d happily enjoy again and the fourth, was okay but a bit overhyped. La Giostra was good and everything people said it would be but by the end of the dining experience, we were more than ready to leave. The staff was almost too friendly, coming off as trying too hard. The restaurant was packed, but with almost entirely American tourists. Don’t get me wrong, I love my home country but when traveling, I prefer to dine among the locals or at least a mix of tourists. The music they played was incredibly random and included more than 30 minutes of just a bit too loud Red Hot Chili peppers. That being said, the food was delicious and reliable.

Luckily, our hotel pointed us in the direction of two separate restaurants which delivered memorable dinner experiences. It is rare for us to go to a restaurant and rave about every single dish. Both of these restaurants served flawless meals that weren’t stuffy but were flavorful, reasonably priced and like anything we’ve had before. The steak Florentine at Trattoria dei 13 Gobbi was Bo’s favorite dish of the weekend while the pasta magnifico or citrus pasta was mind blowing because it incorporated citrus flavors in a cream sauce, something we’d never considered! Their homemade cheesecake, a last minute splurge, was also one of the best decisions all weekend!

IMG_3536IMG_3602Gelato

My readers LOVE their gelato! I received no less than 20 recommendations for Florence gelato shops, luckily more than 80% of them were for the same two places: Vivoli and Gelaterie La Carraia. Bo and I tried one right after our epic bike ride and the other yesterday when ducking out of the rain. Maybe it was the sweet taste of success after biking over 35 miles, but both Bo and I preferred La Carraia’s flavors, consistency and staff. Both places small size cost 2 euros but the serving  was a bit more generous and their cookies flavor was hands down the best gelato ever! A mix of nuts, chocolate, biscuit (aka cookies) with a vanilla base left me wishing I’d chosen it instead of Bo. But, their pistachio didn’t disappoint either. Vivoli wasn’t bad it just wasn’t La Carraia. There was a longer line, the service wasn’t friendly and their pistachio wasn’t as rich in flavor as La Carraia.

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Silent Saturday – We Love Florence

We just returned to our hotel room for a quick break before dinner. After spending ten hours exploring Florence, our feet and legs are sore and exhausted but it was the perfect “Florence highlights” day! IMG_9090 IMG_9091IMG_3580IMG_3588IMG_9101 IMG_9119IMG_9125 IMG_9133 IMG_9134 IMG_3602 IMG_3610 IMG_3624 IMG_3629 IMG_3650

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