48 Hours in Zermatt

The winner for most picturesque ski area in Switzerland definitely goes to Zermatt! After enjoying a late season ski weekend in Zermatt last year, we couldn’t resist going back again this year. Gorgeous views of the iconic Matterhorn, delicious Swiss mountain food, skiing of all levels, and an adorable town, beckon many people to Zermatt each year.

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This year we decided to save a bit of money and stay in Tasch versus Zermatt. Tasch is just an 11 minute train ride from Zermatt which means that as long as pay attention to the train schedule, it’s a great way to save money. Our hotel, the Swiss Budget Alpenhotel, was perfect for our weekend needs – working hi-speed wireless internet, a full breakfast each morning and just across the street from the train station. It was quite basic, but when your goal is to ski each day, you don’t need much more.

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We were on the lifts earlier than usual, leaving the hotel by 9am each morning. We stayed on the Swiss side this year, versus getting lost in Italy again. We really enjoyed skiing around Glacier Paradise, Gornergrat, Sunnegga. It’s hard not to enjoy skiing when the weather report is 100% wrong. We went expecting overcast, snowy weather but instead had another weekend of Spring skiing – temperature in the 40s, blue sky, white snow and sunshine both days!

IMG_7528 IMG_7545 IMG_7532 IMG_7530After a long day of skiing, we stopped at Chez Vrony for a late, afternoon lunch.  Our friends Lauren and Ryan have raved about this restaurant for years, claiming that it is the best ski lunch they’ve had in Europe. Only accessible via ski slopes, this mountain gem did not disappoint!   IMG_7566IMG_7568[1]

We enjoyed a glass of wine on the balcony, before the fading sun and cooler temps forced us to move inside.

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Our entire group was amazed by the food, enjoying a taste of everything from their menu. Bo and I shared our meals, so I was able to enjoy some of the Bloody Mary soup and the fish stew to start. For our main course, we shared their take on the meatloaf as well as the lunch winner, the lamb curry.

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We skied for another hour or so before enjoying a glass of wine at what has to be the coolest mountain side shack I’ve seen. You want me to sit in a lounge chair, prop my feet up, enjoy the sunset and sip champagne? Yes please! The Champagne Bar is a great spot to pause on your way down the Sunnegga side of the mountain.

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After our glass of champagne and some fabulous skier watching we headed down the mountain for après ski at Papperla Pub. At 4pm each day this spot serves its signature mulled wine and cocktails on the outside terrace and inside. At 6pm the live band take the stage, playing covers and requests from the crowd.

Papperla Pub in Zermatt

Our final stop of the evening was Restaurant Julen where our group had the chance to sample Swiss German cuisine in a cozy, warm atmosphere. This was our second time dining at Restaurant Julen and it was just as wonderful as we remembered. The lamb shank and rack of lamb were the winners, in our opinion, as the food was so delicious everyone thought their entree was the best.  On the side of our lamb entrees, we enjoyed cheese, in the form of raclette, as no good Swiss mountain dinner isn’t complete without a little bit of cheese.

Restaurant Julen IMG_7592Restaurant Julen lamb Restaurant Julen lamb shank 

If you have the opportunity to ski in Switzerland, do your best to make it over to Zermatt. The views, food and character will deliver the ski experience you’ve always imagined.

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A Weekend in Zermatt

Over 9 months ago, four of our closest friends, who make up our “Supper Club” group decided to book a week trip to Switzerland. It started as a whim when we’d all enjoyed one too many glasses of wine during one of our infamous supper club cooking evenings on a Saturday night. Elizabeth pointed out that the only time off from her MBA program was Spring Break, which would be a perfect time to visit us in Europe. Within a few days the group agreed that it was a plan and marked the dates on our calendar.

When we finally got our act together and started planning trip details, one item rose to the top of the list – skiing. Where better to take our friends skiing for a weekend than Zermatt. Home of the Matterhorn and skiing 365 days a year, we were excited to experience a new city and the German side of Swiss culture.

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Our 48 hours in Zermatt were perfect. The days were filled blue sky, sunshine and lots of time on the slopes while the evenings were filled with rich, delicious Swiss food and exhaustion induced sleep.

We stayed in a small studio just a 5 minute walk from the lift which Brad found on AirBnB. The studio housed the 6 of us perfectly and featured a larger than expected bathroom, a small kitchenette, wireless, a ski storage area and all the linens and kitchen tools we needed for our two night stay. In keeping with Swiss culture and stereotypes, it was also spotless! We would highly recommend this Zermatt AirBnB for anyone looking for simple and reasonably priced accommodations.

IMG_4860IMG_6852IMG_6854We spent three full days skiing the area which is the largest ski area we’ve ever experienced! There are over 225 miles of pistes (trails) in Zermatt that cross through Switzerland and Italy! The mountain was perfect for our group as more than 60% of the trails are red slopes which are the equivalent of blues and blacks in the United States. I was able to ski with the guys the entire trip keeping up on the red routes though going slower as I made my way down the long, steep runs slowly but surely – huge headway since December when I started skiing over here!

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What intially struck us about Zermatt was the shear size of the mountain and area as we were on a gondola at one point for 30 minutes before we started skiing. However, at the same time, we were able to ski all the way down from the top of Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (12,740 feet)! In addition, the area felt very natural, untouched and filled with glaciers, huge mountains, and exposed boulders.

On our last day we stopped at a fun, unique area called Iglu-Dorf or the igloo village. Igloos fill the small area along with fur laden tables and chairs allowing skiers a place to stop and enjoy fun music, mulled wine and a break in between runs.

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We enjoyed dinner and drinks at four different spots in Zermatt, each very different but so much fun!

Our first stop was Elsie Bar, a tiny bar across from the church in Zermatt and features everything from local beers to champagne and caviar. We enjoyed a glass of champagne and 6 oysters before heading to dinner.

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Our first dinner spot in Zermatt was not recommended by one but three different friends. That is the sign of a great restaurant! Every bit of Restaurant Julen was perfect from their warm atmosphere and comfortable booths to the friendly staff and delicious Swiss German cuisine. Our entire table ordered a lamb dish as the restaurant is known for their lamb which they raise right outside town.

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The next night we started with drinks at Papperla Pub while enjoying their live band and a lively apres ski crowd. Their aperol spritz was refreshing after a long day on the slopes and cooled us down after two straight hours of dancing to the cover band. The band even played our request of Sweet Home Alabama which almost caused us to lose our voices from singing, ahem shouting the lyrics.

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Finally we ended our food tour of Zermatt with a fondue dinner at Restaurant Pinte in the Pollux Hotel.

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Our eyes were bigger than our stomach as fondue, rosti and raclette were enough to leave us with cheese induced night sweats but man was it delicious. I think I need a long sleeve shirt that says “I ski for cheese” because that is the way we all felt by the end of the weekend.

What an incredible weekend but I am happy to spend the rest of today recovering on the couch with Bo!

If you could request one song from a cover band what would it be? Mine is always Dixie Land Delight or Sweet Home Alabama

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